How Much Joint Compound To Buy
We have three major types of drywall compound to choose from; lightweight joint compound, quick set joint compound and the all purpose compound. They have different advantages for different jobs and range in price as well as application.
how much joint compound to buy
The coverage rate is comparable to other USG ready-mix joint compounds. You can anticipate approximately two 4.5 gallon pails of Sheetrock Brand UltraLightweight All Purpose Joint Compound to finish 1000 sq. ft. of gypsum wallboard.
In this neck of the woods the mud comes in boxs, about $7 a box. Amount of mud changes, depends if you use square or round corners. Add slick finish vs. a texture & your sure to have not enough or to much.
1/2 inch drywall on 2 ft centers eats a lot of mud over 16 centers, High low high low. Nothin you can do except finish it . Then running joints get wide. 12 to 14. My joints on 5/8th drywall are never more then 10 inches . Most can be ran on 8 inches.
Something to consider is that running all of your sheets vertical creates a lot more joints than a job with horizontal sheets in the longest lengths practical (thereby reducing the number of butt joints). Most commercial work is done with the sheets vertical, and for jobs with typical 9'-10' boards, we figure 1 bucket per 10 boards and that's usually dead on.
After smoothing down your entire wall, make sure and use a good primer before painting or installing wallpaper. As a general rule, joint compound should always be coated with primer before painting. Happy skimming!
The best consistency for joint compound depends on its purpose. It should be pudding consistency for hand taping, and a little thicker for the final coats. For smaller jobs, transfer some of the joint compound to another pail before mixing so you can make custom batches for taping or finishing.
You can avoid a lot of extra work later by making sure paper tape is thoroughly embedded in the joint compound. Start by laying a thick bed of joint compound down the center of the seam. Then smooth it down to a consistent thickness of about 1/8 in. with your 5- or 6-in. taping knife. Wet the tape and press it into the joint compound. Then, starting at the center and working toward the ends, press the tape into the joint compound with your knife. The key to success is making sure joint compound oozes out from under both sides of the tape as you embed it.
Wetting the tape before you embed it in the joint compound can help eliminate troublesome bubbles that show up after the joint dries. Keep a bucket of water nearby and quickly run each piece of tape through it before applying the tape to the wall.
Lay a 1/8-in.-thick bed of patch drywall compound over the joints and press paper tape into the compound with a flexible 6-in. knife. Immediately apply a thin layer of compound on top of the tape. Allow to dry as you work your way through this how to patch drywall project. Step 4
Apply a second coat of compound, drawing it at least 6 in. beyond the edge of the first coat to taper the edges of the repair. Let dry, then add a third coat to smooth any remaining uneven areas. Step 5
The final steps in how to fix a hole in the wall are to sand the dry compound lightly with 100-grit sandpaper to remove ridges and blend edges. Prime and paint.(new Image()).src = ' =4ea5140f-0bbf-4df7-99bf-0a3fe7646a87&cid=877050e7-52c9-4c33-a20b-d8301a08f96d'; cnxps.cmd.push(function () cnxps( playerId: "4ea5140f-0bbf-4df7-99bf-0a3fe7646a87" ).render("e0d2cf596d904b9bb22f806f4c619cc8"); ); Step 6
The first step of how to patch a small hole in the wall is to drive nails back down using a nail set. If you have screws, dig the drywall compound from their heads with a utility knife and turn them in tight with a screwdriver.
The key to renewing the strength of the corner is to remove all loose tape and drywall compound. If the drywall below has crumbled, cut it away with your utility knife and fill the gap with setting compound.
Those are critical reasons why the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) mandated workplace regulations. Companies that install, remove, and manufacture drywall are also expected to meet the OSHA silica standard for drywall and implement best practice policies to minimize worker risk. By understanding how much exposure to drywall dust is dangerous, safe dust collection methods, and the proper use of personal protective clothing and equipment, safety measures can be implemented to avoid unnecessary negative health effects for working people.
An expansive view of drywall usage and health naturally leads to a consideration of peripheral products. The joint compound used to fill in seams and cracks may include stunningly hazardous materials. Carcinogens such as formaldehyde and acetaldehyde are routinely coupled with crystalline silica. When inhaled, these highly potent agents can damage the lungs and pose a significant health risk from skin contact.
Any discussion about how much exposure to drywall dust is dangerous must start with an understanding of who is at risk. What is interesting about drywall is that it follows a somewhat unique and industry-specific course. Many of the potentially dangerous elements come from mining operations and are processed into drywall at manufacturing plants.
Installing drywall can be easy, but taping the joints between panels requires some practice. Some do-it-yourselfers install the drywall themselves, then call an experienced drywall taper to finish the job.
Although it's easy to figure how much drywall to buy (just compute the square footage of the walls and ceiling), it takes some planning to end up with as few joints as possible. The standard-size sheets for walls measure 4 X 8 feet. They are usually installed with the long side running from floor to ceiling, but if you can eliminate a joint by placing them horizontally, do so. All drywall sheets are 4 feet wide, but many building-material outlets offer 10-foot and even 12-foot lengths. The most popular thicknesses of drywall are 1/2 inch (walls) and 5/8 inch (ceilings), but check your local building code for requirements. Consult a dealer to learn how many nails, rolls
of tape, and how much joint compound you will need. As a general rule, 1,000 square feet of drywall requires about seven pounds of coated drywall nails, a five-gallon pail of joint compound in mixed form, and a 500-foot roll of tape.
Step 3: Install drywall panels on the ceiling. If possible, try to span the entire width with a single sheet of wallboard to reduce the number of joints. Position and wedge the T-braces against the drywall sheet to hold it in place until you finish nailing it.
Step 1: Use a 5-inch-wide drywall taping knife to spread joint compound into the slight recess created by the tapered edges of the drywall sheets. Smooth the compound until it is even with the rest of the board surface.
Step 2: Center the drywall tape over the joint and press it firmly into the compound. Because some compound will squeeze out, make sure that there is still a good bed underneath. When you get the tape embedded into the compound all along the joint, smooth it with the taping knife. At the same time, fill all the nail dimples with compound.
Step 3: When the compound is completely dry (usually 24 hours later) apply a very thin second coat of compound that extends out a few inches to either side of the first coat. After the second coat dries completely, apply a third coat, this time with a 10-inch-wide taping knife, extending the compound about 6 inches to either side. When the third coat is dry, feather all the edges with a sanding block covered with medium-grit sandpaper.
To tape inside corners, including the spots where the walls and ceiling meet, cut the tape to length and fold it in half. After laying the bed of compound, press the folded tape into the compound and feather the compound out at least 11/2 inches to each side. The corners require three coats, and the last coat should extend about 8 inches to each side. Sanding is required here, too.
To finish the outside corners, install a metal corner (from your building-supply store), then apply three coats of compound that taper up to the bead. The last coat should extend the compound on each wall to about eight inches wide. Sand as with other drywall joints.
Let the walls dry for up to five days, following the recommendations of the joint compound manufacturer. Give the surface of the drywall a coat of primer made for paint or wallpaper. When the primer is dry, sand the drywall surface lightly with fine-grit sandpaper on a sanding block. Be sure to sand between each additional coat of paint with fine-grit sandpaper. New drywall should receive at least three coats: a sealer, primer, and finish coat.
Although it is possible to buy texturing compound, many drywall professionals use regular drywall joint compound, or mud. It comes pre-mixed or as a powder, and either way, you have to mix it with water to make it the right consistency for texturing. Depending on the type of texture you plan to apply, you may have to make the mixture slightly looser than the mud you use for taping seams, or you may have to make it pourable, like paint. Either way, if you aren't starting with powdered joint compound, you'll need a mixing tool other than a stir stick.
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People often assume that joint compound and spackle are the same product. While applied similarly, they are different products, each with its own pros and cons. Personal preference aside, these products will both patch holes but the size of the hole may determine which one to use. 041b061a72